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If I had piles of money, I would own a classic wooden
boat, and a retired carpenter to repair/varnish, in
his retiremant. Note that with Piles of Money, I
still would be cheap enough to not have 'Professional
Crew' maintance. It has been interesting to hear
about Teak/Teak/ply, maring ply, ect.
----I myself am currently a retired with a
part-time job selling bait and tourist trinkets. And
our boats are older, and will likely never be worth
alot more that we paid. Strength and function is a
key. ----So, I
the self appointed economy sailor, reccomend. -any
wood cross members, for strength and stability should
be laminated ply. As much as I would be tempted to
use a 2x4, with warping and the like this would be
bad. UNLESS one laminated (glued and screwed) several
together, in diffferent directions--2" way with 4" way
applied together--- Hope that is clear.
-----Exotic woods may be more stable/pretty, but I
cannot afford them, and do not need them.
----I also question the need for marine plywood. I
ONLY use marine plywood on exterior surfaces.
----Exterior grade should ber fine--but price compare.
Marine grade outside (or sometimes green treated) and
Eteriour inside the boat.)
--Posts can be treated stock lumber, but better to
glue and screw a couple 2x4 as to use a 4x4 as a post.
---All wood should be preserved. I use 'spit-coat'
of dilute marine varnish, or OIL Paint, with penatrol
or turpentine added to the first 2-4 coats to
penetrate, prior to final finish, the normal way. Any
wood that is in contact, or could be in contact with
water, gets a pad. A chunk of plactic (should slow
wicking of water) and a replaceable block, that is
Epoxy and/or varnished soaked goes on the bottom. You
now are beginning to see the genius---Plastic barrier
stops wicking, and block stopps the rest of water from
rotting the post. Now you can replace the block of
problems occur, and not the whole damn thing. Not to
worry as the dowels (galavinsed/stainless/hardwood/
will hold the block)
----My Westerly 22 1968 is about to get re-fit as
follows (that is why this stuff, is not san juan
specific, it is ORPHAN OLD boat specific.
---I likely will use matine Ply across the transom for
strength, as the Motor is coming out of the well to a
bracket. The bracket will be bolted inside to treated
2x4, as will the swim ladder, as will the emergency
outboard bracket. The stainless bolts will use the
biggest washers I can find, or alluminum plates.
---The hardware, on since 1968, will be blocked with
marine ply scraps, or, 2x4 blocks, and alluminum
plates. The holes WILL BE PRE SOAKED WITH PENETRATING
EPOXY. Normal caulks, and adheasives will be used.
(apply duct tape to the bottlm of the whole, and let
the exoxp penetrate)
------The motor well hull-hole is to be filled, and I
will cut-out the motor well area and install larger
seating. Now that my seating/cockpit is modified,
supports will me made under the rear traveler, and 2
new/larger cockpit drains installed. Thus far I have
been only close to a trailing wave swamping the
cockpit, but a cockpit full of seawater is Not my idea
of a good time.
---And just as a foodnote, treated lumber just may be
used on the transom, and if and when I sell, I can
allways say I did in for strength, not cheapness.
-- I allways wonder why folks are allowing all this
water inside there boat that rots this wood. Every
boat i bought had leaky windows or sometheing till it
was found/replaced/and repaired. It tales years for a
cabintop/a mast-support to rot. Rot can only be from
ignorence or neglect. Paul halenbeck
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